Fingerboard Cases: Protect Your Setup
Protect your fingerboard decks and accessories. Choose the right carrying case for transport and storage, from simple pouches to custom hard cases.
Why Your Fingerboard Needs a Case
Your fingerboard gear isn't cheap. Throwing decks, trucks, and wheels loose into a bag? That's asking for trouble. Get a case. It protects your investment.
Protection is the core reason. Decks chip. Trucks bend. Wheels scratch or lose bearings, or even lose their tiny bearings. A good case shields your setup from impacts, dust, and moisture, preventing the daily grind from ruining your gear.
Organization is a huge benefit. Fingerboard parts are small. Screws, nuts, washers, bushings? They vanish easily. A case with compartments means your tuning tools, extra wheels, and spare grip tape are always where you expect them. No more hunting for a lost axle nut.
Portability matters. Taking your setup to a friend's house or a park shouldn't be a hassle. A proper case consolidates everything into one secure, ready-to-shred spot.
Types of Fingerboard Carrying Cases
Not all cases offer the same protection or space. Your choice depends on what you carry and how much defense you need.
Soft Pouches and Sleeves
Soft pouches and sleeves are the most basic option. A fabric or neoprene sleeve fits a single fingerboard. It guards against scratches. Keeps dust off. Think of it: a phone sleeve for your deck. They are light and cheap; perfect for a single board going into a larger bag.
Don't expect impact protection. A drop will still damage your deck.
Multi-Deck Soft Cases
Step up in capacity and organization with zippered soft cases. They often feature internal dividers or elastic straps for multiple setups. Plus, mesh pockets hold accessories. Nylon or padded fabric materials offer some impact absorption.
These are a solid choice for a few decks and spare parts. They're flexible. Lighter than hard cases. They handle daily bumps well, but won't protect against heavy crushing forces.
Hard Cases
For ultimate protection, go hard. These cases are rigid plastic or aluminum. They frequently have custom foam inserts. They withstand significant impacts, drops, and crushing. Many are also dust and water resistant.
Foam inserts are critical. They cradle your gear, stopping movement during transport. This means less wear, more security. Hard cases are heavier and bulkier. They are also generally more expensive. If you travel often, or own valuable custom setups, a hard case is a smart investment. It's overkill for one basic fingerboard. But for serious collectors or competitors, it's essential.
DIY and Repurposed Options
Sometimes the best case is one you already have. A sturdy pencil case works for a single setup. Small toolboxes, tackle boxes, or camera cases can all be repurposed. The upside is cost and customization; you can add your own foam or dividers.
The downside: these aren't purpose-built. Modifications are often needed for a proper fit. A simple plastic container with felt lining offers cheap, effective protection for a single deck and a few wheels. It's better than nothing. But it won't match a purpose-built hard case for impact resistance.
Choosing Your Fingerboard Case
Don't just grab any case. Consider these features to find the right fit for your fingerboarding life.
Capacity
How many fingerboards do you carry? Decks are typically 94-100mm long, with common widths from 29-36mm. Do you need space for one complete setup? Or several decks? What about accessories?
Account for multiple wheel sets, extra trucks, tuning tools, or grip tape sheets. A small soft case is fine for a single daily driver. An entire arsenal needs serious capacity.
Protection Level
This is the soft vs. hard debate. A padded soft case defends against scratches and minor bumps. It won't save a deck from a heavy drop. A hard case, especially with dense foam, offers maximum protection against drops, impacts, and crushing. Match the protection to your travel habits and risk tolerance.
Materials
Material dictates durability and protection. Soft cases use nylon, polyester, or EVA foam; they're light and somewhat water-resistant. Hard cases use ABS plastic, polycarbonate, or aluminum for rigidity and superior impact resistance. Always check zippers on soft cases. A cheap zipper fails fast.
Organization Features
Good organization saves time. It prevents lost parts. Look for these features:
- Dedicated Slots: Foam cutouts or elastic straps secure decks.
- Pockets: Mesh pockets are great for larger items like spare wheels.
- Small Compartments: Essential for tiny items like screws, nuts, and bushings.
- Tool Holders: Elastic loops or slots for your tuning tool.
An unorganized case is almost as bad as no case. Parts bounce around. This causes wear and potential loss.
Portability
How will you carry it? A small pouch fits a pocket. A larger soft case might have a wrist strap or fit inside a backpack. Hard cases are bulky. Some have handles. Others are for larger luggage. Consider size and weight, especially if you bike or walk to spots.
Durability
A flimsy case is useless. Check stitching on soft cases. Inspect hinges and latches on hard cases. A quality case feels solid. It's well-constructed. Reinforced corners on hard cases add longevity. Your case should last as long as your passion for fingerboarding.
Organizing Your Fingerboard Case
A case is only as good as its organization. A well-laid-out case saves time. It prevents damage. It ensures you always have what you need.
Dedicated Slots for Decks
If your case has foam inserts, use them. Each deck needs its own snug slot. This prevents rubbing, scuffing graphics, or chipping edges. If using elastic straps, ensure each deck is firm; they shouldn't bounce. For soft cases without specific slots, wrap individual decks in a soft cloth to add separation and padding.
Pockets for Wheels and Trucks
Use mesh pockets or larger compartments for spare sets of wheels and trucks. Keep them separate from tiny parts. This prevents loss. It protects smaller, more fragile components. For multiple wheel sets, consider small individual bags to keep them pristine and identifiable.
Smaller Compartments for Tiny Parts
This is non-negotiable. Screws, nuts, washers, and tuning bushings disappear easily. Look for cases with secure, very small compartments. Fishing tackle box inserts or bead organizers work wonders. Label containers if you have different parts. A small ziplock bag also works for emergency screws.
Space for Tools and Grip Tape
Your tuning tool needs its own spot. Many cases have elastic loops for this; if not, a dedicated pocket works. Always keep a fresh sheet or two of grip tape in your case. Fold it carefully to avoid creases. A small pair of scissors for trimming grip tape is a smart addition. Having everything for a quick repair or adjustment prevents session frustration.
The Essential Repair Kit
Keep a basic repair kit in your case. It should include:
- Your tuning tool.
- A few spare kingpin nuts and axle nuts.
- Extra pivot cups and bushings.
- A small piece of sandpaper for grip tape edges.
- A tiny bottle of bearing lubricant, if you use it.
This simple kit can save your session if something breaks or needs adjustment.
Protecting Your Fingerboard During Travel
Even with the right case, proper packing and care during travel are essential. Don't just seal it and forget it.
How to Pack Decks to Prevent Damage
If your case lacks custom foam, add padding. Bubble wrap, soft cloth, or even extra socks provide cushioning. Place padding between stacked decks. Ensure trucks don't press directly against other decks or delicate components. Everything should be snug, not under excessive pressure. For decks with intricate graphics, place a thin sheet of paper or soft fabric over the graphic. This prevents rubbing.
Securing Loose Parts
Before closing the case, double-check all small parts are in their designated, secure compartments. A loose screw rattles around. It scratches decks. It gets lost when you open the case. If you have wheels with loose bearings, keep them in a sealed container or pocket. This prevents bearings from scattering.
Consider Adding Extra Padding
For long journeys or rough handling (like checked luggage), fill any empty spaces with extra foam or bubble wrap. This prevents items from shifting inside the case. Shifting can cause internal damage even if the case remains intact. More cushioning means more shock absorption.
Avoiding Extreme Temperatures
Extreme heat or cold damages your fingerboard. Wooden decks warp in high heat or humidity. Bearings can seize in extreme cold. Avoid leaving your case in direct sunlight in a hot car. Avoid freezing conditions for extended periods. Treat your fingerboard gear like any sensitive device. Consistent, moderate temperatures are best for longevity.
Choosing and properly organizing a fingerboard carrying case is a small effort. The payoff is big. It protects your investment. It keeps you organized. It ensures you're always ready to shred.
Frequently asked questions
Why do I need a fingerboard case?+
A carrying case protects your fingerboards and parts from damage, dust, and loss, keeping everything organized whether you're at home or on the move.
What size case should I get?+
The best size depends on how many fingerboards and accessories you plan to carry. Decks are typically 94-100mm long, so measure your current setup and account for future growth.
Should I get a hard or soft case?+
A hard case offers superior protection against impacts and crushing, ideal for serious travel. A soft case is lighter and less bulky, good for everyday transport or storing a single setup.
Can I use a regular pencil case for my fingerboard?+
You can use a pencil case for a single fingerboard setup, but it usually lacks specific compartments or padding to protect smaller, sensitive parts like wheels or tuning screws.
Ready to build?
Shop precision completes, decks, molds, and hardware from the Lab.