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Fingerboard trucks are where a build either comes together or falls apart. The wrong width wobbles on grinds, soft bushings wander, and cheap metal bends under pressure. Every pair here is hand-picked for precise geometry, consistent axle spacing and hardware that holds up to real sessions.













The most important rule with fingerboard trucks is width matching. A pair of 34mm fingerboard trucks belongs on a 34mm deck; 32mm fingerboard trucks go on a 32mm deck. Trucks narrower than your deck feel twitchy during grinds; trucks that overhang the deck edge catch your fingers at the wrong moment. Always check the deck width before adding trucks to your cart.
On regular kingpin trucks, the bolt head sits outside the hanger where it can snag on ledges and rails. Inverted kingpin (IKP) fingerboard trucks tuck the bolt inside the hanger, removing that catch point entirely. For riders who focus on grinds and slides, IKP trucks make lines cleaner and reduce the bails caused by hardware catching an obstacle.
Single axle fingerboard trucks use a one-piece axle rod rather than the two-part construction found on standard trucks. This removes a potential failure point and gives a cleaner grind surface. Both designs perform well at the pro level — the choice is largely personal preference and aesthetic.
The bushings inside your trucks control how the board turns. Lower durometer — 70A — is softer and makes trucks carve freely. Higher durometer at 75A or above stiffens them for faster lines and bigger obstacles. Swapping bushings is cheaper than buying new pro fingerboard trucks and is the first adjustment most riders make when a setup feels wrong.
Still deciding? Read the build guides or look up a term.