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The smallest fingerboard parts make a disproportionate difference to how a setup feels. Swapping fingerboard bushings changes the turn character of your trucks in minutes; the right fingerboard tool makes every adjustment precise rather than a guess.


















Fingerboard bushings control how freely your trucks pivot. A lower durometer like 70A is soft and allows the trucks to turn sharply with little pressure. A higher durometer such as 75A or above resists turning and gives a stiffer, more stable ride. Swapping bushings is the cheapest form of fingerboard tuning available — far less than new trucks and immediately transformative. Keep a few hardnesses in your kit to dial in conditions.
Fingerboard screws attach the baseplate to the deck; worn or stripped screws cause trucks to feel loose regardless of how tight the kingpin is. Fingerboard spacers maintain consistent wheel spacing so bearing wheels spin freely without side-to-side play. Pivot cups wear quietly — when the hanger starts to rattle independently of the baseplate, replacing the pivot cup restores the tight, responsive feel of new trucks at a fraction of the cost.
A proper fingerboard screwdriver or T-tool fits the tiny hardware on pro-spec setups without rounding the heads. Using an undersized flathead is the fastest way to strip a screw that is otherwise fine. A dedicated fingerboard tool costs little and pays for itself the first time it saves a screw. Most tools are double-ended, covering both the kingpin nut and the deck screws.
Experienced riders treat fingerboard hardware as a set of variables rather than a fixed spec. Bushing hardness, kingpin tension, spacer width and screw torque all interact. A setup that feels stiff might just need softer bushings, not new trucks. Working through these adjustments systematically — kingpin first, then bushings, then hardware — is how riders build a setup that feels dialled rather than factory default.
Still deciding? Read the build guides or look up a term.